Once a multicultural, cosmopolitan city under British, Yangon slowly declined during Myanmar’s self-imposed long absence from the international sphere. The city’s downtown area contains wondrous reminders of the colonial era but is modernizing fast. New bars, restaurants and fascinating galleries are thriving in the post-censorship era. What slight charm Yangon has lost in the country’s recent and sharp progress is more than made up for in the explosion of places to eat and drink.